I have a Dell XPS 8500, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1,
with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender
and Windows firewall.

Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal
Ram 12.0 GB
System type : 64-bit operating system

I also have

I have a Dell Optiplex 780 Tower, with Windows 7 Professional,
SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender
and Windows firewall.

Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal
System type : 64-bit operating system

and (external hard drives)

(8500)
Seagate Desktop HDD ST6000DM001 6TB
128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal
Hard Drive

(780)
Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
Internal Hard Drive

This concerns the 8500; I had walked away
from the computer for some time which I have
done previously and I usually put it on a
scan when I do but this time when I came
back the screen was black.

I thought at first it was a dead battery in
my mouse but after I installed a fresh battery
still nothing. I tried calling up the Task Mgr
on the keyboard and still nothing.

So I held the power button until it cycled off
and then powered it off and waited 45 seconds
then back on and of course the abnormal shutdown
message appeared and I selected start normally.

Everything seems OK but I'm just wondering why
did it get hung up like that? It's never happened
before?

Thanks,
Robert

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 1/15/2022 7:24 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
> I have a Dell XPS 8500, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1,
> with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender
> and Windows firewall.
>
> Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
> Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal
> Ram 12.0 GB
> System type : 64-bit operating system
>
> I also have
>
> I have a Dell Optiplex 780 Tower,  with Windows 7 Professional,
> SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender
> and Windows firewall.
>
> Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
> Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal
> System type : 64-bit operating system
>
> and (external hard drives)
>
> (8500)
> Seagate Desktop HDD ST6000DM001 6TB
> 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal
> Hard Drive
>
> (780)
> Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
> Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
> Internal Hard Drive
>
> This concerns the 8500; I had walked away
> from the computer for some time which I have
> done previously and I usually put it on a
> scan when I do but this time when I came
> back the screen was black.
>
> I thought at first it was a dead battery in
> my mouse but after I installed a fresh battery
> still nothing. I tried calling up the Task Mgr
> on the keyboard and still nothing.
>
> So I held the power button until it cycled off
> and then powered it off and waited 45 seconds
> then back on and of course the abnormal shutdown
> message appeared and I selected start normally.
>
> Everything seems OK but I'm just wondering why
> did it get hung up like that? It's never happened
> before?
>
> Thanks,
> Robert
>

Your browser used up all the RAM on the machine.

Don't leave a browser running, when you walk away
from the computer.

That's what happened to me yesterday. Left it running.

This is a relatively new phenomenon, and my guess is
it is related to advertising "views" fraud. By reloading
the web page again and again, they can pretend the user
is seeing "fresh" advertisements.

Paul

On 15.01.22 13:24, Robert in CA wrote:
> I have a Dell XPS 8500, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1,
> with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender
> and Windows firewall.
>
> Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
> Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal
> Ram 12.0 GB
> System type : 64-bit operating system
>
> I also have
>
> I have a Dell Optiplex 780 Tower, with Windows 7 Professional,
> SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender
> and Windows firewall.
>
> Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
> Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal
> System type : 64-bit operating system
>
> and (external hard drives)
>
> (8500)
> Seagate Desktop HDD ST6000DM001 6TB
> 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal
> Hard Drive
>
> (780)
> Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
> Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
> Internal Hard Drive
>
> This concerns the 8500; I had walked away
> from the computer for some time which I have
> done previously and I usually put it on a
> scan when I do but this time when I came
> back the screen was black.
>
> I thought at first it was a dead battery in
> my mouse but after I installed a fresh battery
> still nothing. I tried calling up the Task Mgr
> on the keyboard and still nothing.
>
> So I held the power button until it cycled off
> and then powered it off and waited 45 seconds
> then back on and of course the abnormal shutdown
> message appeared and I selected start normally.
>
> Everything seems OK but I'm just wondering why
> did it get hung up like that? It's never happened
> before?
>
> Thanks,
> Robert
>
Dont run more than 1 scanner, they interfere with their co-scanners.
Avast ran down my XPpro 2.8ghz,1GB singlecore to zero usability,
so I removed all scanners.
Apparently XP is not as much a target for malware anymore.
Still running XP, installed at 30th june 2004.
Only had a failed powersupply, on/off switch and sound card.

If I close FF and don't run scans would that be OK or should
I just power it off?

Thanks,
Robert

On 1/15/2022 6:26 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
> If I close FF and don't run scans would that be OK or should
> I just power it off?
>
> Thanks,
> Robert
>

I would just close FF and monitor the situation.

See if the machine then runs smoother, doing whatever
you want it to do.

I've had that runaway behavior on browsers a couple of
times, and I really don't expect the browser developers
to fix it either. In one case, the about:memory (the browser
measures memory usage) said one page was using squat,
when Task Manager showed about 3GB of RAM tied up. The browser
doesn't necessarily even know it is happening. This means
part of the usage could be considered a "leak", since the
browser is apparently claiming it can't see the memory as "used".

In another case, yes, about:memory could see the unexpectedly
large memory usage.

Paul

I did try doing that and just closed FF and worked just fine.

Hmmmmm, sounds like the developers didn't think this one
out too well.

In passing, an update about the recent outage I had and lost the
computer speakers; They have a temporary power line going over
my fence and have dug a trench for it with yellow caution tape and
have marked all the lines etc with red and orange flags and
white/yellow spray paint. They're suppose to come back next week
and finish the job and then I'll be back to normal. In the meantime I
can't go on that side.

Thanks,
Robert

On 1/16/2022 6:14 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
> I did try doing that and just closed FF and worked just fine.
>
> Hmmmmm, sounds like the developers didn't think this one
> out too well.
>
> In passing, an update about the recent outage I had and lost the
> computer speakers; They have a temporary power line going over
> my fence and have dug a trench for it with yellow caution tape and
> have marked all the lines etc with red and orange flags and
> white/yellow spray paint. They're suppose to come back next week
> and finish the job and then I'll be back to normal. In the meantime I
> can't go on that side.
>
> Thanks,
> Robert

Now that sounds safe.

Will they warn you before dropping the power again ?

I would want the entry switch (on your panel) open
until they're finished, on the day they come back.
On the assumption the temporary connection must be
removed, and the final fix installed.

Paul

Yes, they'll warn me and I'll disconnect the computers
so nothing happens.

They're actually are going to relocate the entire panel
to another location away from the water faucet. Believe
it or not that's how it was originally installed it, right next
to the water faucet! I would of thought that would of been
some sort of code violation?

Anyways, they are going to move the location and put the
line in a pipe underground and then disconnect and reconnect
me. This also means they have to move my mini-split A/C
connections but they said it would be no problem.

I will be sure to check those before they go and of course
the computer.

Robert

Here's an update,..

The same guys came back a couple of days ago
and they told me that they haven't been stalling etc
but couldn't find a post. They said it would take 32
weeks to order one!

I thought, maybe you should of got the post before
you dug the trench? Jeeeeeez Frankly I don't understand
why a post would be such a big deal? Can't they just make
one? Or is 'post' some sort of term I'm not understanding?

So now they want to hook it up to my mobile home.
At first, I said no, but then thought my Klimaire is
hooked up like that. So I said OK, but asked them to run
it by the park manager because there may be some sort of
code violation.

So I still have the trench and power line coming over
the fence.

Robert

On 1/27/2022 5:59 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
> Here's an update,..
>
> The same guys came back a couple of days ago
> and they told me that they haven't been stalling etc
> but couldn't find a post. They said it would take 32
> weeks to order one!
>
> I thought, maybe you should of got the post before
> you dug the trench? Jeeeeeez Frankly I don't understand
> why a post would be such a big deal? Can't they just make
> one? Or is 'post' some sort of term I'm not understanding?
>
> So now they want to hook it up to my mobile home.
> At first, I said no, but then thought my Klimaire is
> hooked up like that. So I said OK, but asked them to run
> it by the park manager because there may be some sort of
> code violation.
>
> So I still have the trench and power line coming over
> the fence.
>
>
> Robert

In a power company operating facility, they have wooden
posts stacked up. They need to have those, in case of
storm damage that requires large numbers to be replaced.
They can snap off in bunches, depending on conditions.

*******

It's an article from 2012...

https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2012/11/10/sandy-utility-pole-shortage/1696385/

"Armies of flatbed trucks stacked with the 40-foot-long poles have been
clamoring across U.S. highways to reach the impacted areas and replace
utility poles knocked down or splintered by Sandy."

"The number of new utility poles sent to areas ravaged by Sandy
is on pace to match that delivered after Hurricanes Katrina and
Rita in 2005, he said. Suppliers dispatched about 100,000 poles
to the devastated Gulf Coast in the wake of those storms,
according to the North American Wood Pole Council."

That means there should be quite a few sitting in stock
in various places. In preparation for storm conditions.
You can't run a power company, without a stock of replacement
poles sitting in the yard. It means you buy some every year,
whether you need them or not.

If there's any shortage, it's trucks to haul them,
and the power company bucket truck, you can put a set of
bogey wheels off the back of the truck and have a pole
ride behind the truck, like the pole and wheels
were a trailer for the bucket truck. You don't need
a flatbed to haul just one of them.

Paul

Oh I get it now,...

but what's with the deal of them asking to hook it up
on my mobile home? That has nothing to do with the
large posts in the link you gave and btw damn!

They could just as easily hook it back up as it is now
but they want to get it away from the water faucet as
far as possible. I think its that kind of post they are talking
about. Which is why I say why can they just make one?

I asked how are they going to secure it by cementing it it in
and they replied either that or just in the ground. I thought
these guys really haven't thought this through.

Here's a picture of the trench and in the background you
can see the power line they slung over the fence and two
red flags and yellow caution tape.

https://postimg.cc/7J66wB5p

Robert

p.s. I forgot to add these guys aren't from Edison they are guys
the park manager hired. I checked with Edison when I lost power
because I thought it came from them but they confirmed I was
getting full power so I was the parks fault.

When I called the park manager he asked why I hadn't called him
first because he said my next door neighbor had called him about
it? I told him I thought Edison had caused it and they just had
confirmed I was getting full power so its the Park fault which he
confirmed. Yet I know him and I bet he asked the question because
he thought maybe I had something to do with it. Just like when the guy
wired my place for 220 instead of 110 and he tried to blame me. Luckily
there was another electrician behind him who confirmed I had nothing to
do with it.

Robert

On 1/27/2022 2:28 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
> p.s. I forgot to add these guys aren't from Edison they are guys
> the park manager hired. I checked with Edison when I lost power
> because I thought it came from them but they confirmed I was
> getting full power so I was the parks fault.
>
> When I called the park manager he asked why I hadn't called him
> first because he said my next door neighbor had called him about
> it? I told him I thought Edison had caused it and they just had
> confirmed I was getting full power so its the Park fault which he
> confirmed. Yet I know him and I bet he asked the question because
> he thought maybe I had something to do with it. Just like when the guy
> wired my place for 220 instead of 110 and he tried to blame me. Luckily
> there was another electrician behind him who confirmed I had nothing to
> do with it.
>
> Robert
>

Well, I don't know the details of how they do hookups where you are.

On houses here, they use a mast (metal conduit having great strength),
and the mast is embedded into the poured foundation wall as the
conduit enters the house.

But in your case, if you're in a trailer, you would not want any
roof penetration from setups like that, so you would need some
other mechanism to bring power into the house.

I can find a picture here, but this picture doesn't make sense to me.
I can't tell if this is a conventional mast or not.

https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/204702745534521369/

I think the reason for all this "elevation jazz" is to avoid
the effects of flooding, causing the flood water to be
electrified, if at all possible.

The pipe used for mast, you would think that would be
available at a building supply. I don't know of an "electrical supply mart"
here. I had one when I was back East, which had a huge stock of
parts, and it was only supposed to sell to electricians. But
the clerk at the desk looked the other way, when he sold me
some goods. I was picking up some high temperature wire for
a floor lamp project, amongst other things. To replace the
existing high temperature wire.

If your power is coming in via a trench, there might be
a pedestal involved and some sort of "disconnect" in a
covered box. And that would be present so you would
have a mechanism to disconnect the house during major
electrical work. With a house mast scheme, there are
clamps you can remove, to disconnect service, but you
need linesman gloves and other goodies to do that.
There's no switch at mast level, for disconnect. You would
remove power on a mast, one wire at a time.

When I'm standing on the roof (a 1 in 16 roof), I can touch
the live mast wires if I want. They are not elevated above
roof level so much that they cannot be touched.

Where the mast penetrates my roof, the people doing the
torch-on membrane roof, they build a "box" out of layers
of membrane, to make a waterproof protection for the mast.
That was already present, when they did the job, and they
added layers on top of it.

But the roof on a mobile, is not something you want to be
messing with, because of all the stories I hear. While the
crew was at my place, they started two fires with their
torches :-/ And I had to run faster than fuck to feed water
up to them on the roof. I was in full sprint mode.

Paul

I should of added this picture. This is how its
setup and the square box is where the power
is connected.

https://postimg.cc/dkXgCbVv

In passing, I've noticed recently that before I get my
desktop the screen goes black. I haven't been quick
enough to get my camera to take a picture so maybe
next time I'll remember and have it ready but does that
mean my monitor is going? I don't remember it going
black like that before?

Robert

On 1/27/2022 11:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
> I should of added this picture. This is how its
> setup and the square box is where the power
> is connected.
>
> https://postimg.cc/dkXgCbVv
>
> In passing, I've noticed recently that before I get my
> desktop the screen goes black. I haven't been quick
> enough to get my camera to take a picture so maybe
> next time I'll remember and have it ready but does that
> mean my monitor is going? I don't remember it going
> black like that before?
>
> Robert
>

Yeah, I just don't understand the logic of the power
connection method. I can't tell if they're trying to keep
it all in conduit or pipe, or going for a mast approach.

*******

Your video card could be doing a VPU reset, as a result
of a driver crash. Or, the OS has decided to "discover"
the video device and install a driver as the system
is coming up. On an OS like Windows XP, we could use
some setupapi.* file to check for date-stamped entries
regarding driver installation.

But on later OSes, the evidence is thinner and a bit of
a step backwards in regards to logging.

Device Manager occasionally has logging info in it too,
but it's been quite a while since entries in there were
indicating weird stuff was going on. Today, the log entries
are pretty benign and not helpful.

The OSes can also have health reports, but they may not
tell us what we need to know about drivers. And there is
Event Viewer. For example, you used to see a ton of
entries for the old ATI Catalyst driver, as it spewed out
the same errors every time it started. So that at least
shows a place to see some activity from driver software.
But it's still not easy to figure out.

When your monitor screen turns black, does the "status LED"
indicate the video card is sending sync signals, and the
black screen is just a black signal ? Or is the screen black,
because the status LED is indicating that no signal at all
is coming from the video card. In which case the OSD should
put up a dialog indicating a loss of signal. Usually between
the power/status LED color, and the presence or lack of OSD
messages, you can get some idea of whether it is a black screen
drawn on purpose, or it is the black color of a screen that
is not driven by any signal at all.

Paul

As I understood it they are trying to separate the power
connection box away from the water outlet. Hence the
trench and they are suppose to lay a pipe the the power
line inside and it'll come up at the new location but they
say they can't find a post for it. If that means a simple pipe
or pvc they can mount the existing one on why can't they
do that? I don't understand why this is so difficult? Or as
they suggested mount it to my mobile home but again
that's probably not code. The Klimaire mini-split A/C is
one thing but the power box may be another.

Still regular homes are like that with the meter on the outside.

I just think they didn't think this through very well before starting.
It shouldn't take this long.

As far as the screen it doesn't do it every time but I just mentioned
it in case it does it again. I don't recall seeing any LED its just black
for a second or so and then the desktop appears like normal.
Very strange,...

Robert

It probably doesn't have to do with anything but
just now it took forever to get the 8500 to power up.
I mean it was being very stubborn and this I would say
was the worst it has been. Not good.

I never liked the power button on the 8500 its too iffy.
I would of preferred one like the 780 has. It always powers
on.

However it finally did (obviously)

Robert

Here's the finished job. They forgot to hook my mini-split A/C
back up so they had to return the following day and then another
guy came to fill in the trench and put all the pavers back.

https://postimg.cc/vcxvt2pD

https://postimg.cc/v1bLMYD6

They did a pretty good job. You wouldn't believe the size of the trench
from my place to the junction box.

The 8500 was hard to power on again. This is beginning to bother me.
Is this a sign that the power supply is failing? It took well over 5
minutes to get it to power on. Yet at other times it comes right on but
lately its getting harder and harder to power it on and I'm just wondering
if this is indicative of my power supply going bad?

What if I can't power it on some day at all? Then what?

Once running its fine.

Is there a way to change the power on switch on the 8500 for one like the
780 has or is that part of the power supply?

Thanks,
Robert

On 2/3/2022 7:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
> Here's the finished job. They forgot to hook my mini-split A/C
> back up so they had to return the following day and then another
> guy came to fill in the trench and put all the pavers back.
>
> https://postimg.cc/vcxvt2pD
>
> https://postimg.cc/v1bLMYD6
>
> They did a pretty good job. You wouldn't believe the size of the trench
> from my place to the junction box.
>
> The 8500 was hard to power on again. This is beginning to bother me.
> Is this a sign that the power supply is failing? It took well over 5
> minutes to get it to power on. Yet at other times it comes right on but
> lately its getting harder and harder to power it on and I'm just wondering
> if this is indicative of my power supply going bad?
>
> What if I can't power it on some day at all? Then what?
>
> Once running its fine.
>
> Is there a way to change the power on switch on the 8500 for one like the
> 780 has or is that part of the power supply?
>
> Thanks,
> Robert

It's good to see they resolved the "post" issue, of finding
some component to finish the job.

*******

Your 8500 problem.

It could be power supply, motherboard, or front push button switch.

Take note of the behavior of the front power switch, whether it
is slow to respond, whether the movement is "normal".

It could be the motherboard. The motherboard may be trying
to send PS_ON# to the power supply, but the signal is
not swinging to the logic 0 state properly. This is a common
problem with computers. And it's not clear why this happens.

The control signal on the power supply, might need around
2mA of current to be sunk to ground. The logic chip on the
motherboard has 8mA drive. That would be a typical value
for a modern chip. But back around the year 2000 to 2003 or so,
the chip driving PS_ON# could sink 64mA. They were not
fooling around back then.

Today, the signal is not normally buffered any more, and
the 8mA drive comes from a pin on one of the larger chips.
Back around the year 2000, the chip driving the PS_ON# was
a separate 14 pin chip, like an F series TTL chip.

When you test an ATX PSU, you ground the PS_ON# signal
to cause the power supply fan to spin, and the main
rails to come on. But grounding the signal, that's
a "lot more drive" than an 8mA chip can provide. That
doesn't particularly prove anything. It can be used though,
to prove the ATX supply works.

Sometimes an ATX supply becomes "deaf" on PS_ON#. You can
connect a switch, flip the switch so PS_ON# is grounded,
and nothing happens. And that's an indication that the
PSU needs to be changed out.

*******

You can see a description here, of the switch used on the
8500. Since there may be several model years of 8500, this
switch may have been changed.

https://www.dell.com/community/XPS-Desktops/XPS-8300-8500-8700-Power-Switch-Failure-and-Solution/td-p/7424349

Paul

It's a top push button actually, when I push it in,
it seems 'normal' I try not to force it down further
past the first 'click' when it should engage. I've tried
using a pencil with an eraser to hold it down without
slipping. It should engage immediately like the 780
but it doesn't.

https://postimg.cc/sM6PwpQm

Is there a way to test to see if the motherboard is bad?

Removal of the switch seems complicated, but if you
can guide me maybe I could do it but replace it with
what? and would I have to solder? I have never done
that. I do have a soldering gun though although I don't
know if its hot enough and I think I have some solder
around somewhere.

So what do you recommend I do?

Thanks,
Robert

I re-read the instructions in the link you gave on how to
remove the front panel and top panel to access the switch
and think I can do it but unsure whether I can solder
and I would have to have a new switch on hand before
I would attempt to do that.

So what do I do in the meantime? Leave the 8500 on?
Use the sleep mode?

Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert

On Fri, 4 Feb 2022 at 13:01:46, Robert in CA <magineer02@yahoo.com>
wrote (my responses usually follow points raised):
>I re-read the instructions in the link you gave on how to
>remove the front panel and top panel to access the switch
>and think I can do it but unsure whether I can solder
>and I would have to have a new switch on hand before
>I would attempt to do that.

No, you shouldn't have to solder. Usually, the "on" switch has a flylead
attached, which goes to a header on the motherboard - i. e. the lead
ends in a two-socket (0.1" spacing) connector which pushes onto two pins
on the mobo. Usually a several-pin header, to which other parts of the
front panel - the disc and power LEDs, and the reset button if there is
one - connect, each with their own two-pin connector. sometimes the
internal speaker, too, if there is one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nMVK6Lpge0 shows it very well. (As he
says, if you plug things in the wrong way round, it won't harm, just the
LEDs won't work [switches, of course, work either way round].)

That's for general motherboards; I don't know if Dells are different.
Won't hurt to look.
>
>So what do I do in the meantime? Leave the 8500 on?

Should do no harm.

>Use the sleep mode?

If the sleep mode is something you can reliably recover from even if the
switch is dodgy (e. g. by waggling the mouse), that should also be OK.
>
>Thoughts/suggestions?
>Robert

As I said, I don't know if Dells are different, but usually, the on
switch is only a "momentary" type - i. e. it connects its two wires only
while its actually pressed. (If yours feels like it has two positions -
i. e. push to turn on, push again to turn off, and feels like it remains
further in when on, like a retractable ballpoint pen, then it _is_
different.)

If it _is_ the normal momentary type switch, then until you've got a
replacement (probably raid a gash PC), then (other than leaving the PC
on), anything that shorts the two wires - scrape them to expose them and
use anything, like a key, screwdriver, or piece of cutlery - will start
the PC; after all, that's all the switch does.

It tells the motherboard to tell the power supply to start; obviously
the motherboard/PSU remember you've told them to. If one of those two is
faulty, replacing the switch won't fix the problem. But it's an easy
thing to try (including just shorting the wires, rather than buying a
replacement switch, unless you have one handy anyway).
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

While no one was paying attention, weather reports became accurate and the
news became fiction. Did not see that coming. - Scott Adams, 2015

I don't like the sleep mode. I tried it once with the 8200 and was
very iffy. I think I'll just leave it on.

I don't think it's like a ballpoint pen and in your second scenario
scrap what two wires? I'm not following you?

Do you mean to open it up and scrape the switch wires and then
short them ? But the only way to do that would have to be when
the computer is apart, correct? It doesn't sound safe to do.

Robert

For now I'm leaving the 8500 on,
I don't trust it to power up until we've
discussed a plan and I maybe order a
switch or what you think best to do.

Is this what I need?

Thoughts/Suggestions?
Robert

sorry forgot to add this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115053589468?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A17V7qPcMfQK6l-fSi2Ae0zg47&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=115053589468&targetid=1599090335417&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=1014001&poi=&campaignid=15275224983&mkgroupid=131097072938&rlsatarget=pla-1599090335417&abcId=9300697&merchantid=110763945&gclid=Cj0KCQiAuvOPBhDXARIsAKzLQ8EhKKUrmDZkUZiwoa9Sn7mToQguJB3B5DXUKs9NaHmAXFkafCsPaRkaAp4CEALw_wcB

Robert