On 12/2/23 01:23, Jörg Lorenz wrote:
> Am 02.12.23 um 03:14 schrieb knuttle:
>> We have hardwood floors real not Pergo in our downstairs.
>
> Completely OT.

OT is good stress relief, now and then, there should be some in the
middle but never far away enough east

I came across this OT issue in the suse NG, there they actually
piggybacked an OT sidegroup so people can jump into that one, relieve
themselves, and come back swinging balanced like new choper blades

Hardwood floor? How about Norwegian Wood?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS9sNCjFpzI

On 12/2/23 13:02, Adam H. Kerman wrote:
> Newyana2 <Newyana2@invalid.nospam> wrote:
>> "knuttle" <keith_nuttle@yahoo.com> wrote
>>
>> | We have hardwood floors real not Pergo in our downstairs.
>> |
>> | There is an are of about 8 square feet the needs to be refinished in a
>> | high traffic area. The rest of the floor is in good condition.
>> |
>> | What would the best way of repairing this bad spot.
>> |
>> | Sand down and re-varnish?
>>
>> Add RAM. You can never go wrong with that. :)
>>
>> You have 3 basic choices.
>>
>> 1) Sand the whole floor and refinish.
>>
>> 2) Sand the worn section, then apply a light stain to
>> match the existing floor, poly that spot, hope for the best.
>> (Any stain should be oil-based and thinned out.)
>>
>> 3) Wash the floor with a mild TSP solution or
>> ammonia. No soap. Wipe down the floor with sanding liquid.
>> (You have to use the good stuff, with methylene chloride. The
>> newer, safer stuff, is consistently useless in my experience.
>> There's a good product in a yellow can, but I don't remember
>> the name.)
>>
>> After wiping down (wear a carbon filter mask) apply
>> thinned out stain if necessary, then repoly 2 coats. You can
>> do the whole floor or just the given area. Whichever works.
>> But doing only that spot will show at least a different sheen.
>> If you have wide boards then you might be able to only
>> do specific boards. If you have maple or oak I'm assuming
>> it's narrow boards.
>>
>> That all assumes oil-based polyurethane. I haven't worked
>> with water-based on floors. The sanding liquid would be
>> unnecessary but fine sanding might be needed. Sanding liquid
>> softens the finish. If you poly over old poly it's like
>> painting plastic. Later it will peel like a sunburn. The sanding
>> liquid makes it like the last coat of poly was yesterday. The
>> new coat will stick. You get about 30 minutes from wiping
>> until you need to poly that section.
>>
>> With brands there's a lot of variation. For example, Benj
>> Moore poly is thin and soft. The best I know of, especially
>> for floors, is Zar. (The solids content can vary quite a bit.)
>>
>> Of course, if you live in California then you probably can't
>> buy any of the products I listed and will only be allowed
>> to buy products that are safe for a 3-year-old to eat. In
>> that case I'd suggest a throw rug.
>
> I'm floored. This is a good followup.

Heh, FLOORed.
--
user <candycane> is generated from /dev/urandom